Method of inserting bosoms in shirts



(No Model.) 2 Sheets-Sheet 1.

O. S. DEAN.

METHOD OF INSERTING BOSOMS IN SHIRTS. No. 886,425. Patented July 17, 1888.

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N. PETERS PhomLuho n m-r. Washinglnn, D4 c.

(No Model.) 2 Sheets-Sheet 2.

0. S. DEAN.

METHOD OF INSERTING BOSOMS IN SHIRTS.

No. 386,425. Patented July 17, 1888.

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UNITE STATES ATENT OFFICE.

CHARLES S. DEAN, OF TROY, NEW YORK, ASSIGNOR TO GEORGE E. OLUETT, BRO. & 00., OF SAME PLACE.

METHOD OF INSERTING BOSOMS IN SHIRTS.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 386,425, dated July 17, 1888.

(No model.)

To aZZ whom it may concern-.-

Be it known that I, CHARLES S. DEAN,a citizen of the United States, residing at the city of Troy, in the county of Rensselaer and State of New York, have invented a new and useful Improvement in the Method of Inserting Bosoms in Lanndercd Shirts, (for which I have obtained no foreign Letters Patent whatever) of which the following is a specification.

My invention relates to improvementsin the method of inserti ng bosomsin laundered shirts.

The objects of my invention are to secure the bosom,ofwhatevcr number of layers,in the shirt,- the body of which 'may also be provided with a rc-enforce or not, as desired, the insertion to be accomplished. by one operation and resulting in a strong, durable, and sufficient fastening of the two together by one line of stitching, whatever may be the shape of the bosom, in such a manner as also to prevent the escape of threads from the raw edges between the layers of the bosom, and thereby prevent the defacement of the bosom through the absorption of starch by the loose threads and free raw edges and the formation of starch clots caused thereby,and also to effect the production of a thick and firm border of material at the edge of the bosom,but concealed, for the absorption of an extra amount of starch and the consequent formation of a stiffened margin or frame to aid in preserving the form and shape of the bosom, in preventing the wrinkling of the same, and in increasing the durability of the same.

In the accompanying twosheets of drawings, Figure 1 is a back plan view of the upper portion of the shirt'body front cut out to receive the shirt-bosom and provided on its front with re-enforce pieces on each side of the opening. Fig. 2 is a plan view of the entire shirt-front and bosom as it appears just after the shirtbosom and shirt body front are secured together. Fig. 3 is a partially plan and partially perspective view of the same with a part of the bosomply raised,so as to expose the interior appearance of the lower part of Fig. 2. Fig. 4 is a sectional view cut on the line X X, Fig. 2. Fig. 5 is a sectional view out on the lineY Y,Fig. 3. Fig. 6 is a front plan view of the upper portion of the shirtbody front with the bosom inserted. Fig. 7 is asectional view out on the line V V, Fig. 6. Fig. 8 is an enlarged view out on the line Z Z. Figs. 9 and 10 show slight modifications.

Similar letters refer to similar parts throughout the several views.

, Fig. 1 shows the upper part of the shirt-body front S,the lower part or tail not being shown, for the reason that it is not necessary. The first step consists in cutting out the opening 0, into which the bosom is to be inserted. The two dotted lines-one on each side ofthe opening-indioate the lines of stitching which se cure the rc-enforce pieces R. The second step consists in folding the shirt-body front S in the manner shown in Figs. 3, 4i, and 5, and in such dimension that the edge of the material surrounding the sides and bottom of opening 0 shall be in position to conform to and be substantially coincident with the edges of the several plies composing the bosom when laid out flat. The third step consists in placing the several plies constituting the bosom-consisting, say, of the front ply of linen,F, thcinterlining L, and the back lining, B-and the shirt-body front and re-enforee in certain relations to each other, the shirt-body front S being so arranged that the front of it faces the back lining, B, as shown in Figs. 4 and 5, and so that the back of the same faces the front ply, F, which is the front linen of the bosom, and the interlining L being laid on the outside of the linen front, as shown in Figs. 2, 3, and 4, the edges of all these separate parts constituting the bosom, the shirt-body and the re-enforce being coincident at the sides and bottom of the bosom parts and of the opening 0. The fourth step consists in applying and securing a narrow strip of material, M, to the outer raw edges of the several layers of material so compiled by asingleline of stitches, as shown in Figs. 2 and 4, the narrow folded strip being made to inelose, bind, and firmly secure, as to their edges, the three plies composing the bosom and the two plies composing the shirt-body front and the re enforce piece on each side of the same. As shown in Fig. 2 and at the end of this stage or step, the material constitutes a pocket open at the top only. The fifth step consists in turning this pocket inside out, which being done, the relations of the parts become such as are shown in Figs. 6 and 7, in which the bindingstrip M is found at the edge of the bosom all around,

but on the inside of the samethat is to say, between theinterlining and the back lining in position to cover and occlude all the raw edges of the, material in a continuous pocket all the way around the bosom, except at the top. As shown in Fig. 7, seven raw edges are thus inclosed and covered and theinsertion of the bosom in the shirt-body front is completed at one operation, and as raw or frayed edges permit the threads to expand they will at that point absorb a larger share of starch than elsewhere,and consequently beneficially create an increased stiii'ness at that point all the way around the edge of the bosom, instead of causing or'permitting starch clots, as in many b0- soms, the effect of which will be to give increased stiffness and stability of form and position as well as durability to the bosom, and also to the shirt-body front and re-enforce piece adjacent thereto. For the narrow strip M, I prefer to use a strip cut from the piece diagonally across it, instead of straight across, for the reason thata bias or diagonal cut strip will conform itself or be conformed to the eX- ternal curves, as shown in Fig. 2, without gathering or wrinkling, whereas the tendency in case a straight-cut strip is used will be to gather and form wrinkles or corrugations at the points Where the curve is sharpest, which will be secured and made permanent by the line of stitches, and subsequently when the pocket is turned inside out the relation of the curve will be changed, and, the outside curve becoming in turn the inside curve, further wrinkles, corrugations, or gathers will be formed, the tendency of which will be to defacetheshirt-bosom. Thebias cutstrip,however, will accommodate itself to the original convexity, as in Fig. 2, and subsequently to the concavity produced by the reversal of the. curves caused by turning without the development of permanent gathers not only, but, if there is any tendency to develop gathers in the edges of the material composing thebosom as turned inwardlyin the completed front, the same will be covered and shielded by the folded strip in such a way as to prevent their showing on the front of the shirt-bosom to its injury.

While I prefer to use the bias-cut strip, I do not desire to limit myinvention thereto, as I am aware that a straight-cut strip may be used in its place with advantage in the otherwise use of my invention. While it is the better and more complete method to turn in and under the raw edges of the strips M, as shown in Figs. 4c, 5, 7, and 8, I do not desire to limit my invention thereto, as I amaware that the strip M may be applied in the manner shown in Fig. 9, in which the raw edges of the strip M are neither of them inclosed and covered within the fold of the strip, and also as shown in Fig. 10,wherein one of these edges is inclosed within the strip and the other is not so inclosed. Either one of these methods may be used to advantage.

I am aware that the interlining may be omitted, and also that it may be originally placed on the outside of the back lining, B,and so as to come upon the inside of it when the pocket is turned inside out, as'previously described. I am aware that the re-enforce pieces may be omitted without avoiding my invention.

It is evident that in taking the fourth step in the improved method herein described more than one line of stitches might be used that isto say, that an additional line or lines of stitches might be unnecessarily used; but the first line of stitches through all the parts will form the pocket, and if additional lines of stitches are added they will be unnecessarily added, since a single line of stitches will be sufficient to complete the product of the invention, and an additional line of stitches (one or more) will merely add, at best, to the strength and solidity of the fastening.

By the method hereinbefore described I avoid the expense and trouble of turning in the edges of the bosom and shirt-body preparatory to stitching the edges together in the manner usually adopted.

I have only described the method of inserting the bosom into the shirt-body front. The shirt for which the shirt-body front is intended is to be finished and completed in any usual manner; but as that portion of the work constitutes no part of my invention, I do not con sider it necessary to describe or illustrate any method of doing the work.

I claim as my invention- The improved method of inserting shirtbosoms in shirt-body fronts, consisting in, first, cutting out an opening in the shirt-body front to receive the shirt-bosom; second, folding the shirt-body front so cut out, and also the reenforce pieces, in such a manner that the edge of the material surrounding the opening shall be capable of conforming to or of becoming substantially coincident with the several edges of the plies constituting the bosom when laid out flat and fully extended; third, placing the shirtbody front so folded between the back lining and the front linen of the bosom with its face against the back of the back lining and its back against the face of the front ply or linen; fourth, applying a nar- 1 CHARLES s DEAN.

Witnesses:

CHAs. D. CAMPBELL, J. WEsLEY GRIFFIN. 

